Christmas in Venice
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Christmas in Venice
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True to its authentic
nature, Christmas is not a big commercial event in Venice. Typical
Christmas
decorations, lights, garlands and trees are confined to the
busiest parts of the city: the
Merceria, the Rialto,
San Marco. Occasionally, one can see a window or a balcony timidly
decorated. Nativity scenes, or presepi,
on
the other hand, are much more dear to the Italians, who are credited
with their creation. The
first Nativity scene is said to have been the work of Saint Francis. It
was a living
one and took place in
1223 in Greccio, a small town south of Assisi. Christmas trees,
Germanic in
origin, came to Italy, and to the rest of the world, via England and
the
United States and much later than the presepe.
You
can find Christmas trees in Venice, even natural ones, but only
rarely in
public areas.
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A not so timid
Christmas display in Cannaregio...
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The church of the
Madalena in Cannaregio every other year around Christmas showcases a
beautiful
collection of presepi,
featuring the works of local and international artists.
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| From
Venice, the
amazing work of Luciano Soleni set in the Venetian countryside |
The
Doge
is one of the Wise Men |
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| No
donkey
or ox. Doves, a dog and a cat stretching his back... |
...and
sheep,
of course |
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Also the work of
Luciano Soleni, this presepe
below
has a Venetian theme as well. Again the Doge is one of the Wise Men and
one of
the gifts for the Baby is a corno.
Notice
the pigeons, the mask shop, the women making lace... and the cat
again stretching his back.
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The making of a forcola, the laundry hanging from
long poles, a corner that evokes the garden of Palazzo Van Axel in
Cannaregio, they all frame
the charming Nativity scene. The Patriarch of Venice
is also one of the Wise Men.
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The birth takes place
in San Polo, in the Rialto, where according to tradition Venice
was founded. The Rialto Bridge and the "paron de casa" couldn't be absent.
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This presepe by Vincenzo is from
Napoli. Musicians celebrate the holy birth and dazzling Neapolitan
angels hover above the crib.
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A glittering Polish
scene by
artist Piotr Michalczyk mingles with the Italian presepi. These traditional folk
scenes from Poland are known as Szopka
Krakowska.
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A very special Nativity
scene is this beautiful homage to Giorgione in the 500th anniversary of
his death. It's a moving recreation of his Adoration of the Magi (now in the
National Gallery, London). The scene is the work of artist Alfonso
Pozzobon, who like Giorgione is from the
Castelfranco area.
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A different Christmas
display is in the window of the Hotel
Montecarlo (Calle dei Spechieri, San Marco 463). It has a
typical winter village scene, American style, with flying Santas, a
Santa in a swinging hammock (in the snow!), ice-skaters, ski lifts,
scintillating stars and music. You can easily spend a whole evening
discovering its hidden treasures. In the next window there is a
traditional
Italian presepe set in a
cityscape that could well be Venice. Unfortunately, they were not on
display in 2011.
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In most churches in
Italy the presepe is not
shown until Christmas eve. And in those where it is visible to the
public before Christmas, Baby Jesus is placed in his crib on December
24th, like in this one in San
Lazzaro dei Mendicanti in Castello.
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An exception is the presepe on the façade of the
church of La Pietà on Riva degli Schiavoni where even the
Wise
Men pay tribute before Christmas.
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If you are looking for
a fresh Christmas tree in Venice, it is likely that you would find it
around the Strada Nova,
either by Rio de San Felice
or by Campo de la Madalena.
I've also
seen them in a flower shop in Campo
San Cassan.
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| Christmas
trees
by the Rialto... |
...and
the
Basilica. |
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Santa may well be an
American recreation of Saint Nicholas but he is popular in Venice too.
You can say hello to him in a vaporetto
fermata, at the Rialto, or while rowing near the Grand Canal.
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Both Hanukkah and
Christmas are celebrated in the Ghetto with the giant menorah in the
middle of the campo and the
decorations in many of the shops and houses.
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One of the most
cherished of all Christmas traditions in Venice is the Concerto di Natale, held at the Basilica every year. It is a
"by-invitation-only" event that just
well-connected Venetians and lucky visitors can attend. If you don't
belong
those groups, I recommend you attend the next best thing, a high mass
at
the Basilica the Sunday before Christmas. You never know who may be
performing. Not too long ago the Oxford
College
Choir sang a number of beautiful Christmas themes. Even
if no special performance is scheduled, just hearing mass under the
golden light of San Marco is a moving and unforgettable experience.
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The days leading to
Christmas are one of the best times to visit Venice. There is a
Christmas
concert in almost every church, there is mostarda veneta at Drogheria Mascari, the Mercatino dell' Antiquariato is
open at Campo San Maurizio,
beautiful Nativity scenes can be found all over town, and as an added
bonus you will have the city all to yourself, and the Venetians will be
more welcoming than ever. But above all, you'll be connecting with the
true essence of Christmas, an intimate and private adventure set forth
in peace and good will.
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