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Cast in Stone
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Courtyard, Pensione Accademia, Dorsoduro |
Campo San Nicolò dei Mendicoli,
Dorsoduro |
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Near the church of San Trovaso, Dorsoduro |
Fondamenta San Severo, Castello |
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Convent of Saint Apollonia, Castello 4312,
a few steps away from Piazza San Marco but a world apart in
tranquility. The only Romanesque cloister in Venice (12-13th cent.) |
The Drunkenness of Noah. His sons are
covering his nakedness. Southeast corner, Palazzo Ducale |
Patera
at the end of Fondamenta de le Grue, Santa Croce 2002 |
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Pink columns, Palazzo Ducale |
Gobbo di Rialto, San Polo |
"The beauty that is hidden away, not the
beauty that is revealed, is the city's essence." Max Beerbohm |
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Calle dei Fabbri, San Marco 4720 |
Calle de la Bissa, San Marco 5512 |
Somewhere
in Dorsoduro |
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Patera near Fondaco dei Turchi, Santa Croce |
Leoni in Moleca (crab-like), Cannaregio |
"The global 'baracca' detests the things
that Venice stands for: fragility, slowness, compromise, beauty..."
Paolo Barbaro |
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Saint Martin giving his cloak to a beggar,
Cannaregio 3526 |
Monument to the dog, Calle Priuli,
Cannaregio 4011 |
"It almost seems difficult for me to
admire this Venice: you have to start at the beginning to learn. Its
marble is ashen, a pallid grey, as luminous as the edge of a coal that
has just stopped smouldering. How inexplicable are the red of the walls
and the green of the shutters; so restrained and yet impossible to
ignore; it is the past, but in the fullness of flight; it is so pale,
just as people turn pale as their emotions increase." Rainer Maria Rilke |
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Ponte Cavallo, Campo S.S. Giovanni e Paolo |
Annunciation
on Rio dei Mendicanti |
Annunciation, Cannaregio 6377 |
"Should this city ever be short of cash,
it can go straight to Kodak for assistance." Joseph Brodsky |
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A Venetian Bestiary. A lion's head
with bat's wings over a lintel. A place that Casanova used to visit
(Calle Diedo, Cannaregio 2386A). An almost menacing beast, half
dragon, half serpent hidden in a courtyard in Castello, Corte del
Rosario, off Campo S. S. Filippo e Giacomo. |
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A Roman urn near Ponte del Paradiso,
Castello |
San Giosafat (Iosafa), Patron Saint of
Ukraine, Campo S. Maria Formosa, Castello 5264 |
Christ
at a corner in Dorsoduro |
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Annunciation, San Marco 3128, Crosera (off
Salizada S. Samuele) |
Annunciation, detail |
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Annunciation, San Marco 3127, marks the
site of an old hospice and hostel for German shoemakers |
Corner of Castello with a holy parapet to ward off public peeing |
Portico
between Campi San Zaccaria and San Provolo |
"A
resident of Venice must shoulder the burden of this enormous aesthetic
weight for his entire life.... These narrow calli allow your sight no
scape, they squeeze it between a pictorial foreshortening and an
architectural epiphany; they crush your eyes between the grace of a
bridge and the shady charm of a portico." Built to Kill, Tiziano
Scarpa,
translated by Lawrence Venuti |
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Pietà on Calle del Pestrin, off
Calle Varisco, near Cannaregio 5330 |
A winged bull near Ponte Storto, San Polo |
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Side doorway, Santa Maria dei Miracoli |
Side doorway, Santa Maria dei Miracoli |
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Near San Girolamo, Cannaregio |
San Lorenzo about to be grilled, Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, Castello |
Lost
arm |
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Lista Vechia dei Bari at Corte Pisani,
Santa Croce |
Lista Vechia dei Bari at Corte Pisani, Santa Croce |
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Wellhead at Fondaco dei Turchi, Santa Croce |
Hand near the church of San Marcuola,
indicating that the church has Saint John the Baptist's right hand, Cannaregio |
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Carnal love behind bars, Dorsoduro |
"Oops! I dropped the mortar and killed the
standard bearer of the revolution and got a freeze on my rent for over 400 years!" San Marco (behind Torre de l'Orologio) |
Brotherly
love, Venetian style, San Marco |
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Near Ponto Storto, San Polo 1510B |
Near
Ponte Storto, San Polo |
Near the Rialto bridge, San Polo |
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Virgin, Child, Saint Barbara and Saint
Omobon, patron saint of tailors, Fondamenta dei Sartori, Cannaregio 4838 |
Basilica of San Marco. The turbaned man,
supposedly the builder of the basilica, is biting his fingernails
afraid of the punishment he would receive for boasting that his work
was perfect. |
On
the façade of the church of Santa Maria del Giglio (or Santa
Maria Zobenigo) in the sestiere of San Marco, there are six bas-reliefs
depicting cities once under Venice's control, including Rome (which was
not). |
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Santa Maria del Giglio, Candia |
Santa Maria del Giglio, Corfu |
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Santa Maria del Giglio, Padova | Santa Maria del Giglio, Roma |
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Santa Maria del Giglio, Spalato |
Santa Maria del Giglio, Zara |
Mistake or stonemason's hidden message? Look carefully at the tracery of the upper balconies in Desdemona's house. One wheel seems to spin in the opposite direction. The Palazzetto Contarini-Fasan, also known as Desdemona's house, can be best admired from Campo de la Salute. Legend has it that in Medieval Venice Desdemona was killed by her jealous husband of the Moro family. Shakespeare borrowed the storyline for his Othello. |
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![]() The same wheels appear in a modern palazzetto on Rio del Gaffaro, Santa Croce |
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Perhaps another mason's hidden message,
San Marco, Salizada Pio X, next to the Rialto bridge |
Gone but not forgotten, Fondamenta San Severo, Castello |
"The
window cuts through the arch above the great portal, just underneath
the point....An arch is one of those things that should never be
broken, like a mirror." Across the Bridge of Sighs, Jane Turner Rylands. |
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Bocca di Leone Bocca della Verità, Venetian style. These "lion's mouths" were prominent in Venice. This one in the Palazzo Ducale was used by the citizens to drop denunciations against anybody to the Council of Ten. Anonymous notes were not considered and no person was sentenced without a trial. However, these little mouths instilled terror. They were also found in churches, for zealous snitches. |
The
Rialto Bridge was the first bridge to cross the Grand
Canal. A primitive pontoon bridge, called Ponte della Moneta, was built
in 1181 and later replaced by a wooden structure. Bajamonte Tiepolo,
the leader of the revolution of 1310, burnt it as he escaped from the
Doge's men, after his standard bearer was killed by that fateful
mortar. Another wooden bridge was built but collapsed in 1444 when a
large crowd gathered to watch a wedding procession on the Grand Canal.
It was rebuilt again in 1458 and collapsed again in 1524. It was
finally replaced in 1591 by the present stone structure, a design of an
architect with a fitting name: Antonio da Ponte. People did not believe
that the bridge would ever be finished and coined the phrase that the
bridge would be built "when penises grew nails and vaginas were on
fire." The architect of the adjacent Camerlenghi Palace echoed these
sentiments in the whimsical carvings he ordered for the capitals of the
palace's main façade. A man grows a third leg between the other
two and a woman has her genitalia on fire. |
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Palazzo dei Camerlenghi, San Polo |
Palazzo dei Camerlenghi, San Polo |
"The
lover returns to the contemplation of his mistress with ardor ever new;
he resumes the endless task of cataloguing her charms, only to find
that having said all, he has not said half enough." Horatio Brown,
Venetian Studies. |