18. Scuola dei Varoteri, Campo Santa Margarita

The relief is on the wall of the Scuola dei Varoteri (leather workers, tanners and fur vendors) facing Campo Santa Margarita. It shows the crowned Madonna with a mandorla on her chest. The relief used to be in the scuola's earlier location at the church of Santa Maria dei Crociferi, in Cannaregio, which no longer exists. The headquarters of the scuola moved to Campo Santa Margarita in 1725. The relief dates from 1501.

How to get there. From the Accademia Galleries: as you exit the museum take the narrow street to the left, Calle Gambara, after a turn to the left it becomes Calle Contarini Corfù. Make a left turn at the end of the calle on Fondamenta Priuli. Walk across the first bridge, Ponte de le Marevegie, and continue ahead on Calle de la Toletta, which in Paolo Barbaro's words has a "very musical stretch" as it turns and bends.  On this calle you will find one of the finest bookstores in all of Venice, Libreria  Toletta, specializing in architecture books. A few meters after crossing the next bridge, Ponte Lombardo, you will be in famous Campo San Barnaba where Katharine Hepburn fell in the canal in Summertime  (known as Summer Madness in the UK) and Indiana Jones came out of the rat-infested catacombs through a manhole in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade (the manhole doesn't actually exist). Cut across the campo and exit it through the left-hand corner, Fondamenta Gherardini, where you will see a fruit and vegetable stand barge (one of the oldest in Venice; it's been there for centuries). After you pass the barge, cross the infamous Ponte dei Pugni (Bridge of the Fists or Punches) where working-class Venetians used to fight to the death and you will be in Rio Terà Canal, which after turning left ends in Campo Santa Margarita.

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